A Veteran's Journey

Trivia Questions (Answers @ end)

1. In what movie did we hear the line, “Stupid is as stupid does.”?
2. Who said, “Don’t let the ugly in others destroy the beauty in you.”?
3. In what song (and who sang it) do we find the following lyrics?
   Some folks are born made to wave the flag
   Ooh, they’re red, white and blue
   And when the band plays “Hail to the chief”
   Ooh, they point the cannon at you, Lord
   It ain’t me, it ain’t me, I ain’t no senator’s son, son
   It ain’t me, it ain’t me, I ain’t no fortunate one, no

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It’s not just a job. It’s an adventure! Who remembers the first time stepping into a new country as a member of the United States military?

No, I’m not talking about Boot Camp or Honolulu… I’m talking about a country outside the United States. And, it doesn’t matter if you were Navy, or Army, or Marine, Air Force, or Coast Guard.

It’s one of those early military memories I think we all remember. For some of us, it was a pleasant memory.

But, I know there a lot of veterans would rather forget their first step in-country, especially Vietnam. I was fortunate enough to miss Vietnam – I joined the Navy in July 1973. I also realize that not everyone was stationed outside the U.S. But, stay with me here…

For me? It was the Philippines. We always called it “PI,” short for the Philippine Islands. It was during the Westpac ’75 cruise – my first and my only Navy cruise. I have a lot of great memories of my time in PI.

Subic Bay Naval Station was our overseas home port. It became the U.S. Seventh Fleet forward base for “repair & replenishment” after the Gulf of Tonkin incident in 1964 (i.e., The Vietnam War). It was closed in 1992.

When I was there in ’75, we were in and out of the Philippines a total of seven times.

So How Would I Describe PI?

San Miguel beer, baluts, Jeepneys, grilled monkey meat, The River, and martial law. Did I mention cheap beer? Yeah… you remember that, don’t you?

Think back on your first duty station outside the U.S. How would you describe it?

Go ahead… I’ll wait.

Baluts – how do you describe a balut? I may insult a few folks here–it is not my intent. But, think of the most disgusting thing you’ve ever encountered and double down. Take a fertilized chicken egg, bury it in the hot sand on the beach and leave it for about three weeks. Dig it up, cook it, remove the top of the egg, and eat it… Yeah, you heard that right.

It was considered a delicacy by Filipinos. But I can honestly tell you after seeing of one those things up close (and almost personal), I didn’t need to see any more. I think I’ll just leave it at that.

Question for my Navy friends. How many of you ate one of these when you were completely sober? Honest answers only.

Jeepneys were old WWII jeeps that had been refurbished by Filipinos. They still had the original engines, but had extended open rear end cabs—enough to carry six people comfortably or eight people cramped. Most were very flamboyantly decorated with different colors, flowers, and whatever else their owners could put on them.

Jeepneys were everywhere and after a while, you knew who drove which one by their decorations and music. They were the most common method for public transportation in and around Olongapo City.

Grilled monkey meat or dog meat? I kid you not. There were usually a dozen or so sidewalk portable BBQs of grilled meat between the Naval Station main gate and Olongapo City and there was no telling what they were cooking.

At first, I thought it was chicken; doesn’t everything taste like chicken? But several of the older salts told me that it could just as well be monkey meat or dog meat. Who knew? Most of the time it smelled great and tasted even better. Of course, when you’re half-smashed, everything smells good and tastes great.

Everything was Cheap

The currency in PI was a piso (pronounced “pay-so”). The exchange rate back in ’75 was six pisos for one U.S. dollar. But, if you knew the right people, you might be able to find someone to exchange seven pisos for a dollar.

Everything was cheap in the Philippines. San Miguel beer, made right there in the Philippines, was usually three pisos and a decent meal was usually less than fifteen pisos.

My first time in the Philippines, I went with a couple of buddies into Olongapo City, which was located outside the main gates, across “The River.” They had been there before and I figured I would hang out with them to get an idea of what to expect and hopefully, stay out of trouble.

The streets were pretty dingy and the sidewalks were lined with wall-to-wall bars and restaurants. Almost every bar had a live band (some better than others) and there were streets with rock bands, streets with soul bands, and streets with country bands.

I spent most of my time listening to country music in a bar called the “Country Caravan.” Man, could they belt out my favorite Hank, Merle, Loretta, Tammy, and Willie tunes.

Years later I would tour Bourbon Street in New Orleans and I’d have flashbacks of Olongapo City.

Outside Olongapo

Several guys in the V-1 Division were Filipino. John Tubao was the division Yeoman. He had relatives who owned several bars and restaurants in the surrounding area.

One day, he made arrangements for several of us to visit one of his family’s establishments. LCDR Leone (V-1 Division CO) went with us on this trip. John managed to talk one of the Jeepney drivers down to a fairly reasonable rate–John knew how to work the system.

This particular restaurant was about thirty minutes outside Olongapo City and was located on the beach. A very serene and peaceful setting. We caught a magnificent sunset, too.

We had a complete and delicious meal with different kinds of local fish, seafood, fried rice, chow mein, special salads, and a lot of beer. All of his family members we met were so kind and generous–great hosts. They didn’t speak English and we couldn’t speak Filipino, so John had to translate for us.

Everything was tasty but… at this point in time and this particular place, I learned the most important lesson of eating in a foreign country—never, never (let me repeat, never!) ask the name of what you are eating.

If it tastes good, eat it and enjoy it. Never ask what it is, because in a foreign country, what you think you taste and what you actually eat are often two different things. I still abide by that lesson, even today.

Shore Patrol

On several occasions while in port, I had the grand opportunity to serve Shore Patrol duty. Back in my day, this fun little exercise usually consisted of teams of two sailors dressed in their whites with an SP armband and a white web belt carrying a wooden baton. For most of my SP duties, my friend, Ed Boes, also V-1 Division, was my beat partner.

Despite what you hear, SP does not stand for “Stud Patrol.” SP duty usually started after work hours at 1530 (3:30 p.m.). We would walk an assigned beat, usually a mile or two in length. We’d walk into every bar and restaurant on our beat, checking to see if there were any sailors “out of hand.” Then we’d move on to the next one.

I can’t recall ever finding any sailors or Marines “out of hand.” Drunk as a skunk, maybe, but never out of hand.

I didn’t mind Shore Patrol duty and I had the opportunity to visit all the bars and restaurants on the beat—completely sober.

One of the more positive aspects about Shore Patrol duty was that when chow time came, we would place an order at a restaurant, and then walk the beat. When we returned to that restaurant, our chow would be ready for us—hot and tasty.

My favorite meal in PI was Shanghai Fried Rice and Lumpia. I’ve never been able to find it like that in the US. I’d also order a side of Pandesal bread—THE best rolls on the planet–served straight from the oven in a paper bag.

The food costs in Olongapo City were more than reasonable. One of my other favorites was fried shrimp. In 1975, the cost of a fried shrimp dinner, complete with fried rice and a Coke, was about $1.50. In the states, it would have cost about $3.50.

PI Martial Law

At the time I was in PI, martial law was in effect and the streets had to be clear by midnight. The Philippines was under martial law from 1972 to 1981 under the rule of the Philippines president, Ferdinand Marcos.

We usually started letting everyone know about curfew around 2330 (11:30 p.m.) and most everyone either went back to the base or followed a hooker (i.e., Navy “Relief”) to their home or to a hotel.

I had heard though, that the local Filipino police had orders to shoot on sight if they found anyone in violation of martial law, but I never heard of anyone getting shot.

We’d heard of some locals chasing a sailor or two back after curfew and since the base gates closed at midnight, the sailor had to swim The River to escape. I tell you, the decision to make: The River or jail—I’m not sure what I would do in that case, either. Fortunately, I never had to decide.

If I Had the Chance…

Someone asked me one time what I would have done different, had I stayed in the Navy and taken another Westpac cruise to PI. I had to think about that for a moment or two.

First of all, I’d be the “old salt” and mentor to the FNGs. Second, I think I’d try to spend a little less time in the bars and more time outside the city, playing tourist. I know PI has a lot more to offer than restaurants and bars, even back in the ’70s.

Of course, I’d still visit some of the old haunts, but I’d also take time to learn a little more about this beautiful country, their language, and their culture.

How about you? What would you do different if you had the opportunity to go back a second time to your first port or duty station?

Until we meet again,
Andy

Andy Adkins is a US Navy veteran (’73-77) and the author of several books. His newest novel, NEVER FORGET, is the story of A Vietnam Veteran’s Journey for Redemption & Forgiveness. NEVER FORGET is FREE (eBook, PDF) for all veterans. Download your FREE copy HERE.

Answers:

1. Forrest Gump (1994).
2. Anonymous – from the Internet.
3. Fortunate Son (1969), Creedence Clearwater Revival, written by John C. Fogerty.